48 Hours in Rio

Whether you like feeling the salty air and hot sun on your skin or exploring an urban setting inserted among tall peaks and sea, the city of Rio is always tantalizing. From the most charming branches of urban beach –Leblon, Ipanema, Copacabana and Arpoador— to the edges of the favelas or comunidades, Rio de Janeiro easily finds ways to amaze and contradict. Join us for 48 hours of stimulating discovery.

Friday

Esplanada Grill

After stepping off the plane, full of exhaustion and excitement, first thing we do is check-in at our charming Airbnb apartment before hitting the streets to grab something to eat. Our Google maps’ coordinates mark Esplanada Grill, just a few blocks away from our home in central Ipanema. This is a traditional churrascaria, with a maître d’ that welcomes you at the front door, a few tables and an elegant but lively ambiance. Its uniqueness has kept diners coming back to the Ipanema area of Rio for more than 20 years. Today it is still a formal dining and stylish grill offering an incredible selection of quality meats (more than 30 cuts on offer). Order picanha, ribs and other meat cuts and side dishes such as sauteed potatoes, a delicious salad that includes palm hearts and a bright sweet dressing and you’ll feel more than satisfied. Service is good, although not being able to speak Portuguese makes communication a bit hard with waiters. Even though this is not the cheapest restaurant, it’s definitely worth it.

Saturday

Neighborhood Exploration

A morning stroll down Visconde de Pirajá, one of Ipanema’s lengthy shopping streets, will lead you to Zona Sul supermarket where you can stock your fridge with enough supplies for a whole weekend of in-house breakfasts. You’ll be thrilled to discover some of the best shops just around the corner like Blue Man, a well-known Brazilian brand of swimwear that produces flashy bikinis or Osklen, another trendy brand that has developed a line of clothing printed with images from the work of the pioneering Brazilian artist Tarsila do Amaral. The greatest of all discoveries is Livraria da Travessa– one of the most well-stocked bookshops in the city. Feel free to go in and enjoy a house blend coffee from their lovely café.

Ipanema Stroll

The animated neighborhoods of Leblon, Ipanema and Copacabana are part of the South Zone of Rio. Strolling along the buoyant promenade that leads to wonderful stretches of urban beaches, proves that this is a bustling city with wild activity; from sports enthusiasts to beach goers, the streets of Rio feel more like a giant playground where anything is possible, including a mastery of skilled pick-pocketing while walking in the middle of Copacabana. So part of the adventure is staying vigilant at all times.

Lunch at Angu do Gomes

This is probably one of the most popular and typical Brazilian restaurants serving angu (Brazilian polenta) and beef. Back in the 1950s this was Rio’s iconic bohemian bar where artists, politicians, journalists and workmen could be frequently seen. Reopened in 2009 in Praça Mauá, this is the place to visit if you want to taste traditional dishes filled with pepperoni, jerked beef and smoked soy meat. For vegetarians, there is a delicious vegetable soup.

Museu do Amanhã

Highlighted by an impressive roof extending over Praça Mauá, the Museu do Amanhã is one of Rio’s most outstanding museums. Built by Catalan architect Santiago Calatrava, it explores man’s impact on the planet -bringing out ideas rather than objects. As we wander around the water features and admire the amazing architecture, we get a glimpse at some fisherman on a routine Saturday. More than ten years ago this was one of the city’s poorest and most crime-ridden areas. Today it is one of Rio’s most popular sights. Indeed across the plaza you can find the Museu de Arte do Rio which features various collections of work by prominent Brazilian artists.

Downtown Rio

If you’re an avid walker (like we are) then you'll want to make the most of your time by exploring the heart of the city's business community. Meandering around Rio’s Centro will take you to discover historical buildings as well as modern skyscrapers and beautiful cathedrals.

Santa Teresa

You can’t leave Rio without exploring the hilly streets of nearby Santa Teresa neighborhood. Begin the hike at the colorful steps of Escadaria Selarón at the entrance of Lapa until you reach the top of the charming confines. The vibrant steps created by Chilean Jorge Selarón are made of flashy multicolored tiles that bind together to create a 125-meter mosaic and one of the most graceful staircases in the world.

Cafe do Alto

A few steps from Largo do Guimarães Cafe do Alto serves tasty Northeastern dishes. The provocative menu features feijoada, black bean stew with chopped sausage, pork loin and jerked beef pieces, served with rice, farofa, collard greens and sliced orange. Lighter options include tapiocas (crepes made from manioc flour) and sandwiches. Artisan beers are a must.

Sunday

While Rio is a tropical city of impressive contradictions –on one hand charming beaches, lagoons, cultural spots and traditions–it’s difficult to ignore the unstable and violent reality highlighted by relentless poverty, gang warfare and abusive police without mentioning far-right president Jair Bolsonaro’s resounding failure.

Despite this conspicuous contradictions, first time travelers will fall in love with the bright side of the city. Whether it is a visit to the statue of Christ sitting atop of Corcovado mountain or the Pão de Açúcar cable car venture, a walk to Lagoa, the natural lake in the south zone of the city or the Botanical Gardens –a weekend in Rio will only make you want to come back to continue the marvelous exploration.